Wednesday, 10 January 2007

Nilgris Hills

Met with Seni and headed out on the bus. Got front seat - great way to ride. Can see everything coming (is that good?!) Arrive in Glenmorgan , a small village built around a tea estate, one of the oldest in the region, and a huge hydro electric plant. The plant has a very interesting history and a remarkable project considering its age. Unfortunately we were unable to take pictures. But the image below looks over the natural, near vertical drop(41 degrees) that made the power plant so challenging but also very successful. There is also a winch driven 'train' that travels (I believe) nearly 4km to the power station below in Singara.

View overlooking tea estate fields in the Niligris Hills. Due to the land form in the area spectactual cloud banks form













As you can see the view is undescribal - sensational.

Shortly after leaving here we stop in a small chai stand for morning snacks and chai.



Inscribed stone in Toda tribal village, Niligiris, India


















Toda stones.

After the Toda village we head down the hill, with stories of Seni's pilligramage journey & its entertain events. We find a spot on the way down for a little relax break & I sit in awe of yet another sensational view.


Niligris farm


















View looking back over the farmer houses toward the Glenmorgan tea estate.





Toda temple

















Stop in village for lunch. Good local food. Owner has very impressive water/tea/milk heater made from brass. Impressed by it engineering. Clever stuff that looks great too. Chai is lush too :o)

Our walk takes us on to Klamatey falls, with stories of an dutchman living in one of the remote house in hills.


http://www.ootacamund.com/History.htm

Tuesday, 9 January 2007

Niligris Hills from Ooty


Well woke up and enjoyed the hot water wash courtesy of the morning bucket service. Glad it is not just cold showers as it is a little chilly. Bbbrrrr. Asked about the guide but that seemed to confuse the guy behind the counter so popped back to the veg restaurant that I had dinner in yesterday for breakfast. Had a tasty onion parva (basically rice mixed with onion & saffron). During breakfast the guide came and found me. Strangely enough it was Sini, the guide that is mentioned in the Lonely Planet. Had another quick Masala Chai and then met Sini at the bus stop. We took a bus to place about 4 miles out from Ooty before walking for 15 mins, seeing the Sheep research station, before then catching another bus to '9 Mile'. Apparently the British organised it that every mile for the first x miles out of Ooty that there should be a chai/convenience shop!! We walked up the hill from the stop and Sini explained that this was a choice spot for the Indian film industry to shoot movies. The countryside is gorgeous but does strangely look like Australia, especially with all the Eucalyptus & Acacia trees.

Weaving up through some of the natural ever-green woods Sini showed me some interesting trees with natural anti-monkey + animal defences. After coming out of the wood we headed for one of the Toda villages. The Toda are one of the main tribes that still function in Tamil Nadu. Most of there livelihood is based on agriculture and textiles. One of their hand sown blankets can take up to a month to complete. Each of the Toda villages has its own temple for worship. The one here was carefully crafted from Eucalyptus, bamboo, hardwood and covered with grasses. The front of the temple had a number of symbols, key being the buffalo, but also showing the sun, moon & stars. The traditional Toda houses are built in a similar way with the same materials. One fact that you immediately notice is that the doors are extremely small & the ventilation for the fire inside is equally limited.

Moving on from the village we walked along ridge so that we had a tremendous panaromic view. Breath taking. Our walk took us to another small Toda place where Sini talked with the family & played with their kitten. Fortunately we then headed in to the woods, as by now the temperature was pretty high, even though nothing compared with Cochin & Goa. Now it felt like I had been taken back to Dorset, wondering through the woods, brushing branchs away, weaving though the under-growth. This is what I miss about always been in cities. Observing the passing of nature, hearing the call of the birds, the way tree inter-twine and the light falls between the canopy above. Lush!

As we negotated the under-growth we found the skull of a wild buffalo. Sini explained that this area has a reasonable number of tigers who enjoy a tender bit of Buffalo steak now and again. As our walked progressed over the day we were to see many more signs of the tigers presence. Arriving at the shore of a lake we took the opportunity to enjoy the cover of the trees and tranquility of the water. Ah Shanti.

After nattering and enjoying the silence we worked our way round the shore of the lake. The corner of my eye noted a sudden movement. Across the lake I spotted a herd of Buffalo enjoying a cooling drink. I guess there was a hurd of around 20 animals of all age. Certaintly don't see that in Shanghai, but that said you can see it in Indian cities!

Looping round we headed up the hill, in clearing there was a strong smell of Eucalyptus; passing over a ridge there was a pile of Eucalyptus leaves; getting closer it was evident that it was in fact a hut ajoining a pile of leaves. This I discovered was were the local people made Eucalyptus oil for sale in Ooty and else where by boiling & distilling the leaves. In true Indian style of utilising everything, the spent leaves were used to build the hut and also fire the still.

Pretty much next to the hut Sini showed me a tree where the Tigers enjoyed chilling out on a branch in between sharpening their claws on trunk of the tree. Though the marks weren't as big as in Karzaranga they still gave the impression that a human wouldn't last long against an attack. Climbing the hill there was a commosion about above us, peering up we could make out a black money leaping through the trees. These black monkeys, though not as rounded as Oli, were much bigger than the common monkeys you see in many places in Asia and India.

Monday, 8 January 2007

Cochin to Ooty

7:30 get auto rik to train station. Half way driver stops and I have to swap rik's ???!
Station early get breakfast and then try to collect ticket booked on tinternet. No ticket but I am on the passenger list - could be interesting.
Sight see out of the door as ever - watching India speeding by is wonder. Pass by villages and through enchanting countryside.
Check what time I arrive in Coimatore, have lots of time so have afternoon nap - set alarm just in case. Get up 40 mins before, chatting with someone only to find out that the last stop was Coimatore. Get off at 16:00 in Mettupalayam. More shoddy directions about getting a bus. Miss one bus only to wait 30 mins for the next one to take me to Coimatore (17:30); quick change and I am finally on the way to Ooty (after being told there are no more buses). First half of journey is good but then it gets more interesting - hard seats with bendy, pot holed roads. Arrive 20:45 - make for the nearest lodge Pavithra - 0423 244 8738 . No hot water but who cares it has a bed. Grab some food nearby Jain restaurant - yummy, this is to my regularly breakfast place for the rest of the time in Ooty (1 min from the lodge, up stairs - check it out)

More info on Ooty: http://nilgiris.nic.in/placeofinterest.htm

Saturday, 6 January 2007

Kerela backwaters

Morning cha and snack
Picked up from the home stay
Meet Patrica and David
Beautiful cruise
Visit lime factory,
visit rope making
Great natters
Meet for dinner

Friday, 5 January 2007

Wan Ling Tea House in 8 Days in Shanghai magazine

Heard today from Wan Ling that an article was published in SH (8 days in Shanghai) about the tea house. Be interesting to see what it says....

Fort Cochin

Get of the train. Ambused by chook chook drivers.
Tour of home stays
Get my barings
Go to arts centre

Friday, 29 December 2006

Goan Birthday

I am alive. Survived another birthday!

Happy birthday Oli you old Monkey.