Friday, 11 May 2007

LA Times - Stonehenges all around us

taken from : LA Times article


Stonehenges all around us

Architectural relics and modern structures show that we may not be much different than our ancestors.
By Craig Childs, CRAIG CHILDS is the author, most recently, of "House of Rain: Tracking a Vanished Civilization Across the American Southwest."
February 16, 2007

ARCHEOLOGISTS recently discovered what appears to be the other half of Stonehenge, illuminating what they believe is a much larger Neolithic complex than has long been envisioned. What is coming to the surface seems strangely familiar. Looking closely at Stonehenge and other Neolithic sites, we find the formative patterns of our modern world.

Step out of your house and you might notice your street is fixed on a cardinal grid: north, south, east, west. This pattern defines many American and European cities, as well as Neolithic sites such as Anyang in China and the Mexican city of Teotihuacan.

The new discovery, two miles from Stonehenge itself, is an elaborate residential compound now being excavated. It is a site where the builders of Stonehenge may have lived and where pilgrims may have stayed while attending feasts and ceremonies. Fascinating tidbits have been unearthed: a timber version of Stonehenge, evidence of different kinds of occupations in the 4,600-year-old village and a processional "road" leading to the nearby Avon River. These finds add to the picture of an enigmatic Neolithic religion, in which stone-paved roads are aligned with celestial features and great circles frame the rising and setting sun at key times of the year.

This all has an uncanny resemblance to Neolithic sites in different parts of the world. The Big Horn Medicine Wheel in Wyoming, dating back several hundred years, is a complex celestial calendar, its 28 spokes of aligned stones pointing to risings and settings of the sun and various stars. This medicine wheel, in turn, is similar to the Nonakado Stone Circle of Japan, from the 1st millennium BC, where standing stones mark important, calendrical events on the horizon.

My friend and colleague, Kim Malville, recently discovered an Egyptian Stonehenge in the Sahara dating back more than 6,000 years. Malville believes that it acted as both a calendar and a temple for people living along the edge of an ancient lake, and it is the oldest known megalithic site in the world.

My personal favorite Stonehenge look-alike — at least in concept — is in northern New Mexico, where in the 11th century, the Chaco culture built hundreds of miles of processional "roads." Rather than rings of giant standing stones, the Chacoans erected enormous masonry temples known as great houses. Many of these great houses are aligned to view celestial events through portals and windows.

Looking at the way ancient people assembled themselves, archeologists see cults and primitive, celestial religions. But how primitive were these people's beliefs, and how different from them are we?

I once ambled around the Colorado Capitol in Denver with a compass and notebook in hand. I had come to a modern landmark to apply the same questions we had been asking at ancient sites. I found that every aspect of the building's neoclassical architecture has alignments you see at many Neolithic ceremonial centers. Every bench is symmetrically arranged around the cruciform building, which is, in turn, set to cardinal directions. It lies within an array of other government buildings and open processionals, each holding to the same cardinal patterns.

At the Chaco site, certain ruins were found swept clean, while nearby buildings were loaded with trash. The same thing was just unearthed near Stonehenge: some buildings littered with broken pottery and discarded bones — what archeologists believe to be the leavings of feasts and pilgrimage — and others remarkably clean.

Julian Thomas of the University of Manchester commented that these clean rooms near Stonehenge may have belonged to special people, chiefs or priests. He also suggested that they were possibly shrines and cult centers.

That day in Denver, tens of thousands of people were gathered in an open area at the foot of the Capitol for some kind of weekend fair. The atmosphere boomed with music and smelled of food cooking in numerous tents. What was I seeing? Pilgrims, feasts and cult centers? Were the meticulously kept buildings erected for priests and chiefs?

The same kind of architecture can be seen in Washington, where countless astronomical alignments are constructed into the Capitol and its surrounding buildings and monuments. Most recently, Gerald Ford joined a long line of presidents whose bodies have lain in state inside the majestic, symmetrical Rotunda. Will future archeologists imagine the worship of ancient leaders whose bodies were kept within circular chambers before burial?

So often we see ourselves as a lonely, cultural pinnacle, superior beyond all comparison. But if recent excavations at Stonehenge offer anything, they put our era in perspective, reminding us of an unbroken lineage shared across continents and cultures. We are simply an extension of an ancient age, living now in the next lost civilization.

Friday, 4 May 2007

Visit to Zhen Shan, An Xi

An Xi, Fujian, China














Travelling toward Zhen shan in nei An Xi. The new tea plantations can be clearly seen.

















The man (women) from Wan Ling's Tea House says YES! Farmers queuing up with the latest teas (tie guan yin oolongs) they have produced that evening/day. Unfortunately not the clearest view of the old house we stayed in. Great place with mud walls very similar to those waddle and daub we have in the UK.





















The views looking out over the village.






















The view from the house we stayed at.
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Thursday, 3 May 2007

Tea buying & production in An Xi, China.

Up bright and early. Already have farmers with their latest teas waiting for us to test them.
Interesting to note that just 18 hours after our arrival that the teas are already showing a considerable improvement in the flavour. Flavour now has much more depth and complexity; increasingly the teas have an additional sweetness and the bitterness of yesterday has mellowed so it is not the dominating taste. There is also a degree of the 'Guan Yin' taste & smell becoming noticeable. The teas on the whole improve throughout the day. All of these changes are down to the weather. The first day we arrived there had been rain the previous 2-3 days. Importantly for the farmers the prices also increased by 70-80% on the previous day.

Once the afternoon sun had subdued, around 15:30 Wan Ling and I took a walk to another of the hills. The lower hills were much more mature and with mixed crops including veg tables, bamboo and of course tea. The higher elevations had mostly been developed i.e. traditional forestation had been stripped, in the last 1-3 years. Although this created a somewhat imposing landscape of white clay and new tea trees the surround views were spectacular. We spend several hours on one of the peaks just laying on a giant rock talking and admiring the view. Wonderful. Just the sort of time I wanted and needed to spend after nearly 10 years working with sometime in human technology, in large cities.

Getting back to the house, surprisingly(!), it was time for dinner. We had the excellent bamboo shoots that we had at lunch and lots of great, local, fresh food. Yummy - although my belly is expanding at a horrendous rate. Also ate/drank for the first time ji mi jiu 鸡米酒.

Took time to visit some of the other farmers to compare their production techniques. Although each have their similarities with in the village there are numerous points that vary. The biggest challenge to recording a production schedule is the ambiguity in timings, for example: sun wilting can be done for anywhere between 0-8 hours depending on the weather, the quality of the leaf and the famers personal preference. This obviously is great for us the tea drinker as every 'batch' will have its own unique flavour and characteristics.

Wednesday, 2 May 2007

New Spring Tie Guan Yin buying trip

- Travel from An Xi to a small town in the hills where we used motorbike taxi's to get to Zhen Shan.
- Arrive in Zhen shan after a chat to the driver about motorbikes and computers!
- Old house. As usual they worry that it is not good enough and offer that I can stay in a new building in the main village! Old houses are great and this is typical of the old Chinese style with the open court yards. In this climate they are perfect, except for the mozzies.
- Good walk to 2 of the hills. Amazing views across the landscapes of strange hillocks - look like someone made neat piles of clay everywhere. Watch the boys on bike hairing up and down the small tracks collecting the freshly cut leaves. Large parts of the hills have been freshly terraced and planted with new trees. The oldest tea trees I find are around 10 years. Just thinking about heading to the next peak when I hear cries of ' Jun Cheng'. Spot Wan Ling on the hill opposite! Head back to the house then visit some farmers to watch them make Oolong tea and test some of the particially processed teas.
- Dinner
- Head to Wan Ling's biao ge's. Visit their relatives who also produce tea.
- Beer!

Monday, 23 April 2007

New sesson Oolongs arrive

Well had my first taste of the new season oolongs this week. Still limited in the range and grades available but none the less lovely to taste the fresh spring flavours.

Visited a different tea shop about 10 minutes away from where I am staying in Xiamen. Nice couple who ran it. Had a couple of well used and looked after Yi Xing pots + a new one that had been given to him which was made from an interesting green zi sha clay.

Wednesday, 18 April 2007

E Class trip out!



Escaped to the wide open world of Xiamen.

After our vote on Monday of where we wanted to go we had a full packed day ahead. Meeting at 9:00 on the harbour for a cruise around Gu Lan Yu. Lovely day, perfect weather.

Bowling - Thai domination!

Buffet lunch

KTV - Korean singing suprise, voice altering teacher, dubious version of REM song.

Monday, 16 April 2007

Back to Shanghai

Just back from a weekend in Shanghai. It certaintly confirmed my original idea that if I studied their my productivity would be much lower than in Xiamen! Managed to read about 1/2 a page during the course of the (3 and a bit day) weekend. A little different from 10-16 hours that I would have done over a typical Sat/Sun in Xiamen. That said, excellent to see Wan Ling, to hang out in the market again and catch up with friends.

Market was good, met the owner of the new jade shop opposite Wan Ling's. Nice guy who seems to get a little closer to the source (Xin Jiang) of the jade than some of the others. Surpised though that so much of the crafting/carving still happens on the east coast. I am sure there must be some good opportunities for people to move up the value chain out West. It also highlighted the markup on jade which would explain why some of the people in the market have so much money! Had some good customers in the shop. Interesting brothers from States and a young lady musician with a good business sence + a well versed British tea drinker from London.

Invited out on Friday night for a meal. Met lots of Taiwanese business people in the jewellery trade. Plenty of Huang jiu though my brain was completely numb from studying so was not very conversational. After dinner back to Wu Lao Shi's shop for wine & tea.

BBQ on Saturday was interesting. Quiet (early) start, only to be completely surounded by people. Typcial China. Ate too much meat and as ever disturbed by the amount of rubish that people can produce in such a sort space of time - people complain about over packaging in the UK; that is nothing. It is also the slightly worrying, but true, belief that someone else will clean up. That is true in the immediate environment but unfortunately not if you look at the broader nationwide view. Make my head throb just thinking about it.

Got to the bar finally on Sunday to see Jimmy. Impressive man & musician. Must tap him up for some tunes. Hope our paths cross again, would love to hear him perform. Bar looked good just needed to sometime invested in marketing. Had a good meal in the Xin Jiang restaurant that opened just round the corner from Wan Ling's. Not the same atmosphere as the other - but that is hard to beat.

Flight was easy and for the time & cost I will be flying Spring, Autumn airlines again!